01 Cedar & Pressure-Treated Wood
Cedar and pressure-treated fencing, built board by board.
Wood is still the most requested fence in MetroWest, and for good reason — nothing else gives you the same warmth, the same privacy, or the same ability to be built to fit your yard exactly rather than dropped in as a pre-made panel.

Cedar or pressure-treated — which is right for you?
Both last. They just age differently, and the right answer depends on how you want the fence to look in year five.
Western red cedar is naturally resistant to rot and insects without chemical treatment. It starts a warm reddish-brown and, left alone, weathers to a soft silver-grey that most homeowners come to prefer. It is lighter, more dimensionally stable, and less prone to the twisting and cupping that plagues wet lumber. It costs more up front.
Pressure-treated pine is the value option and is genuinely durable when installed properly. It arrives wet, so it needs a season to dry before staining, and it is more likely to move as it dries. If you plan to stain the fence anyway, treated pine makes a lot of sense.
Styles we build
- Solid board privacy — boards butted edge to edge for a full visual screen. The standard choice for pool areas and back yards.
- Stockade — pointed pickets set tight, the traditional New England look and the most economical solid fence.
- Flat top / straight edge — a cleaner, more contemporary line than stockade, and a favourite on newer homes.
- Board on board — overlapping boards that stay private even as the wood shrinks, and look finished from both sides.
- Shadowbox — alternating boards on either side of the rails, so the fence looks identical to you and your neighbour and still lets air through.
- Spaced picket — open, low and traditional, for front yards and garden borders.
- Lattice or arched top — a decorative cap that adds height and softens a long, flat run.
How we build it to last
Most wood fences fail at the post, not the panel. Ours are set deep enough to sit below the frost line so the ground cannot lift them, backfilled and tamped in lifts rather than dumped in one go, and set plumb and left to cure before any weight goes on them.
Rails are fastened to the post face rather than toe-nailed, hardware is hot-dipped galvanised or stainless so it will not bleed rust down your boards, and gate posts are oversized because a gate is the part of the fence that has to move ten thousand times.
Questions
Wood Fence questions we get asked.
How long does a cedar fence last in Massachusetts?
Properly installed cedar commonly runs 20 to 30 years in this climate. Pressure-treated pine is comparable when the posts are set correctly. The single biggest factor is not the material — it is the depth and quality of the post setting.
Do I have to stain my fence?
No. Cedar left untreated weathers to a silver-grey and loses no structural life. Staining is purely about keeping the colour. If you do want to stain, wait until the wood has dried out — usually a full season for pressure-treated.
Which side of the fence faces my neighbour?
The common convention in Massachusetts is that the finished side faces out, towards the neighbour and the street. If that matters to you both, a shadowbox or board-on-board build looks the same from either side and avoids the conversation entirely.
Can you build on a slope?
Yes. On a gentle grade we rack the fence so it follows the ground with a level top line. On a steeper grade we step the panels, which keeps every section level and gives a cleaner result. We will tell you which suits your yard when we measure.
05 Reviews
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Free estimate for your wood fence.
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A written price, on site, at no cost — usually within a few days of your call.
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